Siwa Oasis Temples


Matrouh Governate

Arab Republic of Egypt

February 19, 2020

In her book The Western Desert of Egypt Casandra Vivian writes “Siwa is different. It is not Egyptian, but North African.  Most Siwans are Berbers, a people who once roamed the North Africa coast from Tunisia to Morocco as early as 10,000 BCE.  The Berbers are the true Western Desert indigenous people.”

The Berbers had many visitors: Ancient Egyptians, Greeks, Romans, Christians, Arabs, British, Germans, Italians … and Yours truly. 

I visited four of the ancient sites:

Siwa Oasis


Matrouh Governorate

Arab Republic of Egypt

February 18, 2020

Welcome to Siwa!

The urban oasis of Siwa lies 750 km (466 mi) west of Cairo and only about 50 km (31 mi) east of the Libya border.  Consequently, the population of 33,000 is mostly ethnic Berber.

Siwa sits atop the aquifer that begins in Sudan and runs northward in an arc under the Western Desert.  South of Siwa, towards Luxor, several other oasis cities lie along the arc and benefit from the springs.

Siwa is blessed with fertile soil, abundant date palms, lakes, streams, irrigation works and scenic hills.

A Marvelous Day


Khartoum State

The Republic of the Sudan

February 12, 2020

My Friends,

I had planned a destination for today.  I never arrive.   Instead I make a series of unplanned stops along the Nile.

It’s a marvelous day.

Across the Nile into Omdurman, I spot a sign for a Fish Market.  The traditional market is a noisy scene of blood and guts.  Busy fish mongers butcher and clean, chop and slice, weigh and sell the daily catch.  The diligent butchers barely acknowledge my presence.  A few smile.